Bob Letterman

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April 11th, 2013 by admin

Weathering Olive Drab painted model vehicles

Lesson one. The basic wash.

For this step, you will need;

1) Artist’s Rectified turpentine.
2) Raw Umber artist’s oil.
3) An old t-shirt, (Preferably white or light colored).
4) A wide, flat soft bristle brush, (Preferably a Filbert)
5 An old bottle, cleaned thoroughly.
6) A pallet, I use an old card stock with a shiny finish. (To avoid the paint absorbing into the pallet.

Click on image to enlarge.

Then, squeeze out about a half inch of the oil onto the pallet.

Throughout this basic wash tutorial, I am going to assume that everybody watching is a complete novice, so, no, I’m not a jerk, I want to make sure I cover it for everybody! I swear, most model tutorials always seem to me that the author is more concerned with impressing his readers than teaching anything. Just sayin’

Just in case you are too young to know what “blot” means. I’m old and we used to blot ink! Blot is placing your T-shirt covered finger on the wet wash, soaking up what it does, Never wiping, pulling back, moving your finger to a clean area of the t-shirt, then blotting once more and repeating over and over and over.

Also, rectified turpentine is extremely flammable. Use caution when using it. I always pour some into an old, clean bottle that is capable of being sealed. Always seal any container of rectified turpentine when not in use. I would advise strongly against using it out of the container it comes in. I don’t smoke, but I would strongly advise any of you smokers to never smoke around rectified turpentine.

Then the brush.

Click on image to enlarge.

Then, dip the clean, dry brush into the bottle of rectified turpentine. This is a relatively fresh bottle, I used it once to paint something green. The turpentine changing colors doesn’t matter at all. I usually use the same portion of turpentine for months and before I change it, it is usually almost black and opaque. That doesn’t effect anything except if you are using it to thin white or yellow. In fact, you can use the multi-colored turpentine in much the way some use filters. Place the wetted brush on the strip of artist’s oil and begin mixing a small portion of the strip.

When it is properly thinned, a small pool to the side should be the consistency of whole milk.

Click on image to enlarge.

To check if the consistency is correct, paint a strip on a white surface.

Then, wipe it off. It should look like this. This is the only time you will hear me tell you to wipe anything. This is a piece of cardboard, not a model. Click on image to enlarge.

On your model, you should NEVER WIPE. Never. I am emphasizing that because that is exactly the first impulse for most people. In fact, here is a rule of thumb that will run through this series on weathering. NEVER RUB or WIPE ANYTHING, EVER!.

Using your index finger, poke into the T-shirt and pull remaining cloth towards you and away from the finger, creating a smooth surface on the tip of your finger.

NOW, BLOT, NOT WIPE the paint mixture off the model. Each time you blot, move your finger to a clean spot on the t-shirt. Continue blotting until most of the opaque mixture has been removed. That does not mean to totally remove it. Just remember, NEVER, EVER WIPE IT! That is where most modelers go wrong.

Here I will illustrate on my sample vehicle. Before the wash. Click on image to enlarge.

After painting on the wash. Note that it looks just as though you used regular paint. You cannot see through it. If your wash is translucent, then your wash is too thin. It should look like this on your model.

Then you blot away, each time, changing to a new, clean place on the t-shirt.

Here, the wash in this area is complete, next, go to another section, avoiding overlap as much as possible, but if you do a bit, no big deal! Click on image to enlarge.

You will notice, some of the wash left on the surface in the corners is still wet and glossy. That is how you want it to look. After a couple of days, three at the most, it will dry dead flat, become very subtle and blend well to the O.D. base coat. If it doesn’t, then you have used another thinning medium than rectified turpentine.

Here are a couple of shots of a Jumbo Sherman I have only applied this wash to. No other processes, only the wash. Yours should look the same after a couple of days drying.

This is the end of the first step.

Part Two

We had just finished a portion of the bed in part one. In part two, we will finish washing the remainder of the chassis.

Something I would like to add here is the magical way in which rectified turpentine interacts with artist’s oils. If your blend is correct, you don’t have to be careful. Just coat the base coat and worry later how to get it off. With this system, you need not be concerned with getting it all off. When it dries, you will be surprised at how it softens, blends and lightens in shade.

When using oils, there is rarely any waste. The strip of raw umber I placed on the pallet yesterday is still there and still usable. Just add some more rectified turps and you are back in business!

Click on image to enlarge.

We will start to complete not only the bed, but the entire remainder of the chassis. Note the oils have already dried except for the edges and is dead flat.

AS I have already marked the vehicle with dry transfers, the wash covers those as well. They will emerge as you blot away the wash.

As previously said, cover everything and worry about removing it in tight quarters later.

Click on image to enlarge.

Removing the wash. I use the finger in the t-shirt to blot away the large, flat areas, also, anywhere you can get to with that method. Another way to get into tiny places is with a clean, dry brush. Jab or blot, don’t wipe! Then clean the brush with the t-shirt and repeat.

To access small areas, use a q-tip wrapped into the shirt. The q-tip alone will leave fibers that you don’t need!

Click on image to enlarge.

The following three pics are various stages of the truck being washed. The beautiful thing about this rectified turpentine and oil mixture is that if you can’t reach it with the q-tip wrapped in the cloth or the dry brush, don’t worry about it! When it dries, it will soften, lighten and blend. I know your first attempt will make you panic because it will look very dark in some areas. Just set it aside to dry for 2 or 3 days. If you have used those two mediums, you will be pleased with the results when dry.

Click on image to enlarge.

I had washed the cab previously and after drying, I used 1/48 scale Waldron aircraft dials, data plates and gauges to detail the dash board. They are so tiny, they are unreadable with the naked eye and lend a sense of realism.

Click on image to enlarge.

Here I have the basic vehicle washed completely. Now, I’ll set it aside to dry for a couple of days.

Now, I will wash the remainder of the parts in the same manner as the vehicle itself and set aside to dry.

Here are the wheels that I painted the tires with Vallejo dark rubber previously, now washed and ready to dry.

Next lesson we will begin washing the canvas parts and painting the .50 cal. machine gun and preparing to begin dry brushing.

Part three.
Overnight, I washed the remainder of the parts. The furnace is drying out the house and the wash is drying quicker than usual.
Click on image to enlarge.

First, I’ll give a preview of the next series of lessons. This post wraps up the washes. There are a few canvas items on the truck that was painted with Humbrol matt 72, one of the colors in the package. It was washed along with the olive drab, not differentiating at all. Now, I will try to make it look like canvas. The photos run dark in my workshop. My photo setup is in the museum and it is simply too far away. I’ll go out there and take some photos for the end of this session.

With all Humbrol enamels, the first rule is to never mix the paint. Humbrol pigments fall to the bottom of the tin. That is where you want them. I use a mini screw driver to go through the carriers, the somewhat clear liquids that float on top, down to the pigments at the bottom, scrape a small amount and bring it to the top and out of the tin. Do that with Matt 72.

Place that on a pallet. Click on image to enlarge.

Then, use it straight from the tin. I take a Number 8 sable filbert and swirl it in the pigments. Then take a clean t-shirt and using your thumb and forefinger on your left, (Right if you are left handed), hand and squeeze out the paint. Repeat three times and then push the brush down on your pallet and twist as you are doing so.

When you can see just a translucent circle on the pallet, you have it right. Now, I begin jabbing and twisting the brush on the raised areas of the canvas top.

The major mistakes made in dry brushing are;

Too much or too wet paint on the brush.
Too different a shade of paint than the color you are dry brushing.
Dragging or wiping the brush across the area instead of punching, jabbing and always the twist at the end.

Any other way will result in streaks, obvious dry brushing appearance, or too much contrast between the area and the highlights. Dry brushing must be built up in layers, from almost the same shade to a lighter shade, the lighter area always towards the center. If your color jumps out at you from the base color on your first pass, it is too light.

You can go to pretty much any show and see the entries that were dry brushed poorly. They stand out like a sore thumb!

The best modeler at dry brushing I have ever seen is Francois Verlinden. The man can spend hours dry brushing a tank and when complete, it looks as if it was airbrushed. I wish I had his patience.

Punch and twist the matt 72 straight from the tin on the canvas. When it gets to this point, stop and lighten your mix.

Click on image to enlarge.

Then, on your pallet, take the Humbrol matt 34 white, using the small screwdriver or similar tool, and scrape the bottom of the tin for a small amount and place it on the pallet. Then mix equal parts of the two colors, matt 72 and matt 34.

Then, dry brushing as previously described, punch and twist., apply this mixture to the canvas tarp.

Click on image to enlarge.

When it is just right, I take a 003 brush, mix the wash again, and gently line the straps and details on the tarp. Later, I paint the buckles with the polished steel and buff. You can see them later down in the final photographs.

It is like a program for us to do the wipe or drag thing. I’ve been doing this for more years than some of you have been alive and I still have that urge. Suppress it!

Next, I will finish the tools. I start with a tin of Humbrol 270003, polished steel. Again, the same process, use the small tool to remove the pigments from the bottom of the tin and place on the pallet.

Then mix with the rectified turps until the consistency of paint. Then proceed to paint all the metal parts of the tools.

Click on image to enlarge.

As that is drying, maybe 15 minutes at most, I used an acrylic flesh paint to paint all the wooden parts. The best base color to simulate various kinds of wood is an acrylic flesh. Tan doesn’t work. Once dry, I’ll demonstrate how to use oils to make the wood.

with these two oil colors, Raw Umber and Burn’t Sienna, you can make several types of wood. Walnut, dark or light, oak, teak, and mahogany. For our purposes, I will mix an equal mixture of the two. Just as with the wash, when first applied, they appear too much. After they dry, they will go dead flat, soften and become several shades more subtle.

Then blend.

Click on image to enlarge.

And, finally coating the flesh base coat.

OK, finally, here are some pics I took at my photo booth in the museum.

A close up of the tools with the polished steel buffed and the oils applied to the flesh painted handles.

Click on image to enlarge.

Finally, an over all shot of the canvas and the dried wash on the front of the Diamond T.

One last thing, The way I weather never involves pretty models at the end of each step. My goal is to have a realistic looking model when I have finished. In between, it can look pretty ugly at times. I’m just saying this because I forgot to mention it at the beginning.

Next up, lesson four, dry brushing, metalizing and adding scratches, blemishes and chipped paint.

Lesson Four Drybrushing, part one.

We will begin the dry brushing phase here. As with washes, dry brushing has gotten a bad rap over the last dozen years. I believe the reason is because so many people were doing it wrong. I do not profess to be the best at this, far from it. To be really good at dry brushing, you must be very patient. I am not that!

I do know the basics and dry brushing can replace several of the newfangled processes out there today if done properly.

All those obviously dry brushed models we have all seen at shows and even in magazine galleries are almost always due to three things.

1) Too much paint on the brush
2) Improper technique
3) The brush is too stiff or too wet.

When dry brushing an olive drab base coat, I use two Humbrol colors.

Matt 72 Khaki Drill
Matt 66 Olive Drab

Again, using a small screw drive or something similar, go through the clear liquid at the top and pull a small amount of pigment and place on the pallet from each color.

Click on image to enlarge.

Then, mix about 50-50 on another area of the pallet. Then, I take a number 8 filbert that is completely dry. Dip it in the mixture, then, using the old t-shirt, grasp the brush between the t-shirt using your forefinger and thumb, squeeze and pull. Repeat until there is barely any color on the t-shirt. The way to know if you have the correct amount of paint on the brush is to jab it straight down on a clean area of the pallet and twist. It should leave something that looks like the swirls on the following two pics.

Now, using the jab and twist, (Kind of like stippling but with a twist at each thrust), lightly enhance the raised portions of the model. You don’t want to see immediate results or you are using too much paint. No problem if you do, just leave it till you are finished with the dry brushing procedure. I purposely over done the step on the right side of the chassis. see below.

Click on image to enlarge.

Over done.

If you get too heavy handed, after you are finished with the vehicle, mix a light mixture of the raw umber/turpentine wash and simply go over the part with too much dry brush.

Click on image to enlarge.

Then blot it off as in the wash tutorial.

The following are three pics during the dry brushing of the entire vehicle.

Click on image to enlarge.

Now for the second stage of the dry brushing. On a clean pallet, obtain the pigments from the bottom of the matt 72, Khaki Drill tin and place of the pallet. Never use thinner of any kind during dry brushing. That includes the rectified turpentine. You want the brush to be dry. A wet brush causes streaking and blobs, even when using the punch and twist method. Keep that brush dry.

Then smooth it out with another brush.

Click on image to enlarge.

Then wipe it clean with a t-shirt. Then try the swirls.

Then begin the punch and twist jabs again on the highest points with detail. Not too much, but, if you overdo it, you can always go back and re-wash it as I did previously. Dry brushing should be very, very subtle and never jump out at you. If it does, you won’t like the end result.

Click on image to enlarge.

Now, dry brushing with Humbrol enamels dry very fast. The last step in this session is to make another raw umber wash, only this time, much thinner. If you are using the artist’s rectified turpentine, this will be a breeze. Using a fine brush, I am using a Winsor Newton Series 7, 000 point, dip it in the mixture and outline all the panels and details. The brush I am speaking of is not the one in the picture immediately below, but the one following that. If the wash is thin enough, it will take capillary action around these details. If you go off a bit, don’t be concerned. This is very forgiving. When dry, it will leave a very subtle dark area around the details that will be very soft when dry. It will make those details and panel lines pop out without being obvious. Some people call this a pinwash. Some do it in black which, IMHO, is too obvious.

Click on image to enlarge.

Here is the pinwash after drying.

OK, so much for that one
Part 5 Drybrushing
After the initial dry brush tutorial, I normally begin attaching details after they are also painted and weathered using the same wash system. After I have most of it glued in place, then I do a touch up with the matt 72 Khaki drill and the matt 155 olive drab. Just so you know, this is what it should look like.

AS nobody else is weathering a Diamond T, I will relate how some of these details were done as we go down the files.

The winch wire was made from twisted solder wire and then dry brushed with the 270003 polished steel, then buffed.

Click on image to enlarge.

The resin tanks were replaced with tanks from the Italeri Tool set. Archer dry transfers for the stenciled data. More twisted solder wire for the two crane wire. In the bed, I added a set of acetylene tanks on a cart with gauges. The hoses will be added later.

Here is an overall shot from above to show the additional dry brushing that was done after details were attached. I will give those areas another pin wash later.

Click on image to enlarge.

The left side of the truck. The wheels and tires will receive some splashes of dried muddy water in the next lesson.

Here is a shot of the truck from an above angle. Note the dry brushing in the panels on the side of the bed. These will also get some pin washing later as well.

Here is detail of the .50 cal. I left the ammo box open to show detail of the brass jackets and copper heads of the rounds.

Click on image to enlarge.

Detail of the crane assembly was dry brushed with both the OD plus khaki drill mixture and the 270003 polished steel. The metallic color should be used very sparingly as it is very easily over done.

The right front showing details of the additional dry brushing.

Click on image to enlarge.

The right side.

The bed.

And, more detail of the crane assembly.

Click on image to enlarge.

Still have quite a few more details to add, plus all the rigging for the two cranes. As you may have noticed, I like to contrast the heavily weathered, the slightly weathered and the new equipment on a busy vehicle such as this. IMO, it creates a more realistic look. Random is a difficult thing to model, as we humans are prone to uniformity and symmetry, but live in a world where everything around us is spontaneous and random. I always attempt to create that random appearance.

I have a Jumbo Sherman that has been washed and I will include that in the final dry brushing chapter before we go into dirt, mud, scratches and chipping in the final 3 series, part 6.

OK, I am declaring the Diamond T finished. I will start lesson six, the last dry brushing lesson, with a Jumbo Sherman that was built but not painted back in 1985, carried around all these years and I decided to use it in the diorama after updating and redoing it. This is an old Verlinden resin conversion on a Tamiya hull.

It has been base coated, washed, using the same system, and only some stippling of mud on the hull. I will begin dry brushing it in the next lesson. Here are three pics.

Click on image to enlarge.

Click on image to enlarge.

Now, here are the final shots of the Diamond T.

I have added all the details, did a bit of dry brushing and pin washing where needed, and generally touched up anywhere needed. I am happy with the results. This was a bear to build and required a lot of scratchbuilding.

Click on image to enlarge.

Click on image to enlarge.

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For comparison, here is what it looked like when we started. Note the total change in color created by the weathering process.

Now, I set it in the diorama and photographed it just to see how it will look.

Click on image to enlarge.

I always model for the camera. I like my models to look real when photographed. If it looks real when I see the first photographs, then I am happy, they don’t necessarily have to look pretty. Using that criteria, I think I accomplished that. Tell me what you think.

That last pic doesn’t have any fancy special lighting, it is only the little windows of the garage door shining through.

OK, for the final lesson on dry brushing, I will use the Jumbo Sherman mentioned and pictured in lesson five.

Using exactly the same method as explained in lesson 5, I have dry brushed in the center of areas and panels. I always like the panels, squares and rectangles on a vehicle to blend from dark on the outer edges to light in the center. Always make sure you are dry brushing with only a slightly lighter color. Too much and the contrast will be stark.

As I used the matt 155 and the matt 72, it tends to be a bit more of a green cast.

Can you see what I mean about working dark to light in the center in any given area? The sun bakes the center of the panels more than the edges, and this way creates a natural appearance.

Next, I use the very same mixture of artist’s oil raw umber and rectified turpentine on a pallet.

Then using a very fine brush, anything smaller than a number 1. I used a Winsor Newton 7 series 000. Make sure the wash is thin enough to achieve capillary action when you touch the brush to an indented area, the paint runs for a distance inside that groove. I have known people that do this with black paint, but, in my opinion, that is too harsh and doesn’t look real. After the raw umber mixture dries, it will darken the indentation but not look like it was painted in.

Now, here is how I weather the rubber band tracks that come with the kit. Many people only use the separate track links and I do as well, sometimes. Honestly, with this system, you have to look close to see if they are rubber band tracks Here is the ARV M-32 B1 that I used this method.

Begin by using cardboard longer that the length of the two tracks. Here is where you use the Burnt Sienna artist’s oil, thin with the rectified turpentine on a pallet and just paint the track till it is a reddish color.

Let dry for a couple of days. It will be dead flat and a nice uniform color of rusted metal.

This is an option for those who want a muddy appearance on the tracks. Using a pallet and the Matt 29, Flat Earth, mix a bit on the pallet with rectified turps. Then using a flat wide brush, begin stippling the track. Hold the brush vertically, (Perpendicular), to the track and just jab it randomly to achieve a mud splattered appearance. Do that on both sides of each track.

When finished, they should look something like this.

If you don’t wish to have a muddy water splashed hull, you can eliminate the stippling and use the washed track as is.

The different units on my large diorama will have a similar lightly mud splashed appearance, since they have all been through the identical terrain. So….. I will also stipple the mud onto the lower parts of the hull. Just use the same method as the tracks and randomly hit the road wheels, the lower hull behind them and parts of the hull immediately above the wheels on the hull sides.

Here are some pics of the jumbo with the wash and dry brushing almost finished. I have began to add detail in preparation for the next lesson.

This last photo shows the tank crew and the tank riders that will be on the finished vehicle. You will note this tank has 4 machine guns. The normal hull MG, the normal .50 cal on the turret plus a .30 cal forward of the commanders cupola, and another .50 cal on the right side of the main gun on the mantlet. This was standard armament in the 37th armored regiment of the 4th armored division in WW II, commanded by Col. Creighton Abrams. That unit also added plate armor to the front and sides of the hull and the sides of the turrets of their M4A3s, but already having thicker armor, the Jumbo wasn’t fitted out with it!

The next set of lessons will cover paint chipping, scratches, rusting, metalizing, (Making the tank appear metal-like), detailing, final finishing and staining. Plus, a way to turn flaws into cool looking weathering.

Part 7, This ‘n That.
Got the Jumbo finished. I’m thinking since I have so many O.D. models to weather, I’ll just do a couple more as everybody catches up. Each model always has it’s own unique areas of weathering, so…… Why not?

I’ll begin this one with rusting. The artist’s oil burnt sienna is a natural for rusting. It is the basic color of rust and there are so many ways to use it for rust. The basics; I just squeeze a tiny bit onto the palette. Then add some rectified turpentine and mix to the consistency of whole milk.

Then using the larger dry brush, (Or your finger), touch the drops and drag downward, leaving tiny streaks as shown.

Then do so on the other side of the hull. Then a drop here and there where rust would normally collect. Don’t overdo this as it will ruin the appearance. In weathering, always in moderation. Too much will have the reverse effect that you want.

This belonged in the Diamond T tutorial, I forgot it but will stick it in here.

When building softskins, a great material for windows is Micro slips. They are the micro thin covers for microscope slides. I cut them with a diamond phonograph needle just as a glazier cuts full scale glass. I attach the needle to a tube and using a metal ruler, scribe the dimensions onto the tiny glass and break on a straight edge,

Shown here are the micro slips and the home made glass cutter.

A box of slips.

Note how thin. They are so much more to scale than the clear plastic that comes with the kit.

For chipped paint, I use the Humbrol 270003 metallic polished steel. I use a tiny artificial sponge to apply it, then keep jabbing it on a clean piece of white paper till it only leaves tiny dots. Then apply to areas of the vehicle where you want chips. After drying, you can buff with a clean cloth a bit to get a metallic shine.

For buildings, I use a larger, natural sponge as shown.

Then I can get the kind of effect of peeling and chipped paint as shown.

To make scratches, Take a very fine brush and a paint much darker, (Not black) than your finish. Make a streak and let it dry. Then with a slightly lighter color and the same cleaned, fine brush, make a very fine line immediately next to the dark line, just on top. See Below.

I covered the tracks in an earlier lesson, but, after installed, I dry brush lightly the raised portions only with Humbrol 270003, polished steel. After drying, polish them to a shine with a clean, soft cloth.

NOw, here are some pics of the Jumbo after completed, with figures of the crew and tank riders. The crew have the insignia of the 4th armored division, while the riders are of the 79th Infantry Division.

For effect, I set the Jumbo on the base it will eventually go. I now have two of the Shermans finished, only 6 more to go.

Now, for the next lesson, I will begin from the start on two vehicles, the scratch built road grader and the half-scratch built gasoline duece and a half.

If you have any questions or if anything is vague or difficult to understand, that’s what I’m here for.

Part 8, Deuces Plus

As I have finished both the demo models, I decided to weather some more while some play catchup. As many of you know, My diorama, Logistics, will have nearly fifty vehicles. I have finished 10, I have to build 6 more, and I have 33 built, base coated and ready to weather. As I usually do them in groups, assembly line style, I have selected seven vehicles and will weather these as an ongoing lesson, Number 8 and final.

I have been applying the insignia on these seven, so, I’ll start by showing each one before the washing begins.

There will be four Two and a half ton GMC trucks, one Italeri Cargo, one Tamiya tipper dump conversion and another Tamiya, this time a gas tanker conversion. First, the Italeri, hard cab which was produced up to 1943 until replaced with the soft cab to save on steel for the remainder of the war.

Before painting.

After painting and applying insignia.

The dash. Sorry, a bit out of focus.

The cargo. This was from a German resin company called “Real”. Not sure if they are still around. I have two sets. One of the munitions cargo and another of the fuel cargo. I used the munitions one for this deuce. I had base coated it and washed it. After I detail paint it, it will be ready to mount in the bed of this GMC.

Next is the GMC soft cab that I converted into a gasoline tanker.

Prior to base coating.

Base coated, wheels painted and dry transfers applied. I used 6 colors on the gas cans. 4 colors of O.D., German yellow and a couple of German gray tanks. During the war, everybody used every gas can they could find, friend’s or foe’s. I wanted these to reflect that.

Rear view.

Tanker dashboard.

Next, the GMC dump truck, (Tipper), conversion made by The VLS company, Trakz.

Before base coat.

After base coat, tires painted, etc.

And detailed dash.

Then, back in 2004. Trakz, a subsidiary of VLS, released a GMC set of cargo canvas cover and another of GMC cargo stowage gear. I built this one as a demo for trade shows. I’ve had it since and although several broken parts, I’m going to use it as one of the 9 deuces in Logistics. It needs some detailing, and a bit of wash and dry brush here and there and it’ll be fit for duty!

Then, a couple of the six jeeps, these will be painted as Military Police jeeps, part of Georgie Patton’s entourage

Here they are ready to weather.

Finally, I scratched a road grader a couple of months ago. The base coat has hardened and it is also ready to weather.

Ready to go!

It will take me a couple of weeks or so to finish these, barring any unforeseen circumstances. I will post as each vehicle moves through the weathering process. I have already copied the first two demo vehicles onto the “Logistics” threads in my masterclass. I plan to do the same with these seven after they are finished

Part 8 A
Well, I got a bit more vehicles weathered.

First, a couple of tricks I’ve learned over the years. I use pastels a lot in my weathering. Way back in the 70s, there was a great modeler that was also a Chicago cop. His name was Jim Stephens. He was in the Shep Paine books, How to build Dioramas and How to build Military models. He was a master of pastels, the best at it I have ever seen. I have one of his scratch built 1/24th scale trucks in the museum. Check it out.

Entirely weathered with pastel chalks. I use them in many different applications. I’m no Jim Stephens, but here is a trick that takes seconds to do. I am aware of all the products out there to make rust, but this is the most simple and the most effective I have ever seen, and it can be done in less than a minute.

First, a slightly out of focus, (I have a hell of a time photographing in my basement workshop), exhaust pipe and muffler.

All you need is a bottle of flat black paint, acrylic or enamel, doesn’t matter. I used Vallejo.

Then I keep a piece of plywood with a fine slip of sandpaper taped, face up. Then three colors of pastels, (Available in any art supply store, black and my two favs, burnt sienna and raw umber. Rub all three in seperate locations on the sandpaper till you have some powder from each.

Then, paint the muffler with the black paint and before it has a chance to dry, use a stiff, wide brush to stipple the three colors of pastel dust onto the wet painted muffler. It dries absolute flat and has a very realistic finish.

It is so quickly applied and looks so real, I wouldn’t use any other method. Here it is on a Ferrari engine.

OK, now to the Jeeps. There will be six jeeps in the diorama. Two will be part of Patton’s entourage. I washed them yesterday, they were dry this morning. Then the dry brushing, (Note; the wash and dry brush were minimal as Patton’s HQ vehicles would never have been all that weathered). I added radios, antennae and the Military Police markings.

Another little trick is to paint the reflectors on softskins black, not the mounting brackets, the lenses. After they dry, use a bright red paint to place a dot in the center of the black lens. Then after drying, paint the entire lens with clear gloss, it has a very realistic appearance. Just noticed I threw in a commercial for my friend Chris Merseal of CRM Hobby shop! :cheer:

I left off the one steering wheel as it will have a figure in the driver’s seat that can’t be mounted after the steering wheel is attached.

It is all painted and ready to fit into the bed of the truck! I first sprayed the entire resin block with O.D., Then, after drying, I gave the entire piece a raw umber wash, then painted all the wooden crates with a skintone acrylic. Then, using matt 72 and matt 159 Humbrol, I drybrushed all the canvas objusts to a khaki color, painted the straps with straight matt 72. Gave the rifle a Humbrol 270003 polished steel and a skintone to the wooden part.

Using a mix of Artist’s oils raw umber and burnt sienna with rectified turpentine to thin, painted the wood grain on all the boxes and the stock of the rifle. Oh yeah, I used some Archer dry transfers for the stenciled boxes.

OK, a few more steps.

First, the GMC with canvas cover. This is now finished, awaiting the driver, co-driver and the steering wheel.

One more down. Next the converted GMC deuce and a half tipper dump truck has had the insignia applied and been washed with the raw umber and rectified turpentine, using the blotting method. It will set aside to dry.

Next up, the gasoline truck conversion with insignia and also washed as above.

While the vehicles dry, I have converted and posed the crews for them and several others and will begin painting them so they can be placed inside the vehicles prior to closing them up. This batch of figures bring the total to 326 altogether that have been posed and converted and ready to paint. I have about 80 of those now that are totally finished!

OK, I just finished the Scratch built Road Grader. I used exactly the same weathering technique as the others on this thread. I have four more to go and then I’ll call this tutorial quits!

and finally, with the dozer it will be working with on the finished diorama.

Here are two more vehicles I have finished using exactly the same methods herein.

First, a Dodge WC-51 Ambulance from 4th Evacuation Hospital. I used the body of the old Testor’s/Italeri and the frame and all other equipment from the AFV club 3/4 ton Command car. I also used a lot of the micro lenses from Grief.

Then the half scratch built Deuce and a half gasoline tanker and trailer.

Part Nine, The Wrap up.

Well all things come to an end and so this is the final chapter. I know I said I would cover weathering olive drab aircraft. I will do that in a future tutorial after I recover from this one. If I remember correctly, I began this mid February, so a total of five months ago.

During that period, I have built a few, painted a few, weathered and detailed all 14 models from start to finish. The last four were completed today. All these vehicles were weathered using the same system demonstrated in this tutorial. Some were more heavily weathered than others, depending on what they were and where they had been.

These 14 vehicles plus the Series icon M-32 ARV will end up as 15 of the total 51 vehicles on my current diorama, “Logistics”.

Here are the last four, all deuce and a half cargo trucks. There will be a total of seven in the diorama.

First, is the GMC 2 and 1/2 ton dump truck, which will be clearing rubble along with a bulldozer and the scratch motorgrader.

It was more heavily weathered to have a similar appearance as the dozer and the grader.

Then the Studebaker 2 and 1/2 ton cargo, loaded with 55 gallon drums. It was weathered as all the XYZ Express trucks, the successor to the more famous but smaller Red Ball Express. And yes, a tiny few were used by the US Army in the ETO, although most went to the Pacific Marine units or the Russians. I have photographic evidence of two in an XYZ Express column in the final days of WW II.

Next up, the canvased topped GMC Cargo. Used a lot of external stowage on this one.

Next, the GMC Deuce and a half cargo, open back with lots of cargo. All these are weathered similarly as they will be in the same column.

Now, I will post photos of the remainder of the 14 vehicles I finished during this tutorial.

The Dodge 3/4 ton ambulance.

The Deuce and a half semi=scratch fuel truck.

The Plymouth Staff Car. (Very lightly weathered).

The Diamond T Wrecker.

Four Jeeps, There will be two more, (Built and basecoated, but not weathered yet).

Then, the scratch built motorgrader photographed with the newly finished Dump truck.

Then the Sherman Jumbo conversion that laid around fir 30 years before I rebuilt is and gave it new life.

And finally, all the vehicles from this tutorial in one photo.

Altogether now, I have 29 of the 51 vehicles built, painted, weathered and detailed. Many even have the figures attached. Most of the remaining vehicles are built and base coated, waiting to be weathered and detailed. I still have six more Shermans to build!

I have enjoyed doing this and I sincerely hope it either helped some or entertained others. Down the road, I would like to do another one on buildings and structures, and, as I mentioned, I would like to do one on weathering aircraft.

Now, I’ve got to get on those Shermans and get ‘em built!